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An insider's guide to McLaren Vale's must-try wines
Bruce may be a much-loved Wine Merchant in our Marion store, but he hasn't always called South Australia home. "I'm originally from Canada," he says, "and when I got my visa 27 years ago, we went out for dinner to celebrate the fact that I was moving to Australia. We were drinking Coriole's sangiovese and there was a map of the Fleurieu Peninsula, which is part of McLaren Vale, on the back of the bottle. I turned to everybody and said, 'That's where I want to go,' and two years later, I wound up working in a cellar door down the road. I suppose I was sort of destined to end up in McLaren Vale."
While serendipitous, Bruce's story is by no means uncommon; McLaren Vale has a way of attracting people and never letting them leave. That said, why would they? There's mouth-watering food, beautiful and varied landscapes, a tight knit community and, of course, world-class wines, which is why we're speaking to Bruce in the first place. And in his expert opinion, these are some of the McLaren Vale wines that everyone should try, whether they're visiting the region or hoping to experience a taste of it at home.
McLaren Vale rosé, from Chapel Hill
Rosé? Yes, rosé. Trust us, because anything made by Michael Fragos – Chapel Hill's winemaker – is worth committing to. "He's an amazing guy," says Bruce. "Really, really down to earth and passionate. They do fantastic red wines but the rosé really is amazing. It's made from sangiovese, so we're talking about one of those wonderful Mediterranean styles that's lovely and savoury. Imagine fresh strawberries with cinnamon sticks swirled through it and you're close – just a stunning wine, I love it."
McLaren Vale grenache, from Yangarra Estate and Oliver's Taranga
McLaren Vale is known for its delicate and complex grenache. "It's probably more typical of Spanish grenache than Australian," says Bruce. "There's a pretty fruit characteristic, but also this wonderful spice and hints of clove and cinnamon. We tend to look for more of that fruit dominance in Australia, rather than spiciness and perfume, and that's where I think McLaren Vale does grenache better than anyone in the world."
You can't speak about McLaren Vale grenache without mentioning Oliver's Taranga, a family-run operation with six generations of winemaking and grape-growing experience. Grenache flows through their blood and they consistently produce some of the best examples in the region, as does the team at Yangarra Estate. Bruce claims not to like picking favourites, but he admits that Yangarra Estate has got to be up there. "Peter [Fraser] has transformed a 170-hectare block of land into this incredible biodynamic, really environmentally and culturally sensitive location," he says. "The grenache is lovely, light, fresh and fruity, but still has lots of complexity."
Oliver's Taranga has six generations of grape-growing and winemaking experience behind its grenache.
McLaren Vale sangiovese, from Coriole Vineyards
Coriole recognised very early on that there was an opportunity to explore alternative varieties in McLaren Vale. Their sangiovese was planted in 1985, making it the oldest continuously produced sangiovese in the country. "You've got to remember that 1985 was when everybody was looking to plant shiraz, and they're planting sangiovese," says Bruce. "It was quite a daring feat and a really remarkable thing. Now, you're starting to see what sangiovese can produce on fully mature vines and the team has 35, maybe 40 vintages of sangiovese under their belt. They know what to do with it and how to make it sing."
McLaren Vale shiraz, from D'Arenberg and the Kay Brothers
The sea breeze that reaches McLaren Vale in the evening cools down more than the locals. The region's vineyards also benefit from the lowered temperatures, meaning the grapes maintain freshness rather than stewing in the warmth. This, Bruce says, is what differentiates McLaren Vale shiraz from, say, the Barossa Valley. "It's all about fresh fruit character, so you get a bit of the darker fruit like plum, but it's more fresh redcurrant and red berry characteristics, which are light and fresh on the palate."
D'Arenberg makes what Bruce calls one of the best examples of shiraz in the Vale. "It's just one of those wines that really captures the essence of the region," he says. "It has this incredible depth of flavour and intensity, and will cellar beautifully for 15 to 20 years. It should be in every collector's collection, but it also has those lovely, crisp, fresh fruit characters that make for fantastic drinking now."
If D'Arenberg captures the essence of McLaren Vale, Kay Brothers is one of the wineries that helped create it. The family has worked the region's vineyards since the 1890s and the shiraz is made from vines that are 130 years old. "Their vineyards are in the northern part of McLaren Vale," says Bruce, "where you get this red iron soil that produces lean, elegant wines, instead of those rich and fruity styles."
D'Arenberg may be famous for its incredible cellar door, but don't discount the simple pleasures like vineyard views with a glass of shiraz in hand.
McLaren Vale tempranillo, from Serafino Wines and S.C. Pannell
Tempranillo is a rising star in McLaren Vale and, according to Bruce, there's plenty left to shoot for. "I'm really excited about the future of tempranillo," he says. "As the vines get older, and we get more vintages under our belt, I think tempranillo is really going to be a star in this region. The climate is absolutely perfect, so once we get some more experience, we're going to do incredibly well with it the same way we have with sangiovese."
It's tough to go past Serafino Wines for McLaren Vale tempranillo. Serafino Maglieri, or Steve, as he's known, arrived in 1964 as a teenager from Italy and established his first vineyard in 1968. "Their tempranillo is just superb," says Bruce. "Juicy, red berries, fresh and delightful, and fills your mouth with all kinds of spice and savouriness – imagine a flamenco dancer tapping away on your tongue and swishing her dress around."
S.C. Pannell is another producer flying the tempranillo flag in the Vale. "Stephen [Pannell] is probably the hottest top gun in the region at the moment," says Bruce. "He's spent plenty of time in Spain, so he has a really good handle on what tempranillo can do. It's a beautiful wine from someone who is right on top of their winemaking game at the moment."
McLaren Vale red blend, from Wirra Wirra Vineyards
Blends tend to be underrated by the Australian public but the Wirra Wirra Church Block, Bruce says, "has been a staple on restaurant wine lists and dinner party menus for years." It's a unique blend of cabernet sauvignon, shiraz and a touch of Merlot, which is perfect for food pairing across a range of styles and flavours. "I think of it as a reliable, go-to wine with great drinkability," says Bruce. "It's a testament to the benefits of blending and how it brings out the strengths of McLaren Vale's red varieties."
Wirra Wirra Church Block: a dependable red blend that's perfect with food (or fire).
Has Bruce piqued your interest in McLaren Vale wines? Then it's time to start planning your trip to McLaren Vale! Check out Dan's McLaren Vale Vine Guide for all the information you'll need to put together an epic itinerary. And if you simply can't wait? Then head to the online store and order one of Bruce's recommendations today.
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